FFA as stearic (282 mwt)
Donkey Milk is naturally high in antioxidants, amino acids, Vitamins A, B1, B6, C, D, and E, as well as Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. It is also naturally comprised of Butterfat, retinol, and a high Calcium content, making it an ideal, nutrient-rich moisturizer. This white, opaque solid brick base does not have any added colors or scents, but the milk content contributes to a smooth and creamy texture while adding a bubbly lather that nourishes skin while it cleanses and gently exfoliates. By hydrating the skin, Donkey Milk softens and smooths while balancing the skin’s pH level.
Glycerin, a natural emollient, is included in this base to draw moisture from the air to benefit the skin. It cleanses without stripping or upsetting the delicate natural pH balance necessary for soft, healthy-looking skin. All NDA soap bases are produced with high-quality raw materials to form a luxurious lather that results in sparkling clarity. Due to the absence of mineral oils, this soap rinses clean without leaving any soapy film behind.
Highly moisturizing formula
No artificial colors added
No animal testing
White in color
Wide temperature ranges, from 140 F to 180 F
Lightly-scented base for a superior fragrance lift
pH of 9.5 to 10.5
Compatible with wide range of fragrances
Caution: When making soaps, it is important to keep in mind that the Melt & Pour Bases contain water as part of the formula, thus if they are left exposed to the atmosphere, the water will evaporate and the bar of soap will shrink. It is recommended that the entire soap bar be fully wrapped as soon as it has been poured and cooled, and this should minimize or even eliminate any shrinkage.
Usage: A two-pound brick can produce between 10-20 soaps, depending on the intended size of the final soap.
Directions For Use:
Melt and pour soaps are pretty simple. You melt the base, add your color, add your chosen fragrance and other beautiful additives and pour in the mold. Voilà! you now have a hand made soap you can call your own! We have included the basic material that you will need in order to create your soaps, while the other material can easily be found in your kitchen.
Melt & Pour Soap Base Fragrance
Soap additive (if available) Alcohol in a spritzer (available in drugstores)
Double boiler or double boiler type (pot & aluminum bowl to put on top) Spatula
Stove Kitchen Knife Mixing bowls
1. Melting the soap base: start heating up the water in the double boiler. Always keep an eye in your stove for safety. Cut the soap base into smaller sizes with a kitchen knife. Place the cut soap in a double boiler pot and stir occasionally until melted.
130 F (54 C) – begins to melt 140 F (60 C) soap is fully melted
Note: do not go more than this temperature, as your soap will start to discolor and lose too much water.
Most people would use double boiler on stove top to melt the base for easier control of heat. Although you may use the microwave too, just make sure that you leave enough room in the bowl you’re using to melt the soap. And should you prefer to use microwave, heat for short periods such as 15 to 20 seconds, stir between each heating time until soap is completely melted.
Adding fragrance: once the soap is melted, pour into a glass bowl or measuring cup: once it’s cool enough to hold in your hand, you are ready to add the fragrance. When adding fragrance to the soap, stir well to evenly spread the aroma. It’s better to add fragrance before color. This will allow you to see the effect of the oils you added before adding any color. At times when using essential oil it gives a distinct color and might not require added colorant.
Recommended fragrance: in 16 ounces of soap (1 lb) you can add 1 to 3 teaspoons of fragrance (20 to 60 drops) or until you achieve the desired aroma.
This can be one or more scents but the total number of drops remains the same.
3. Adding color: add little by little the liquid color to the soap while stirring until you achieve the desired look that you wanted. If you want to make a clear base opaque, dilute a small quantity of titanium dioxide in water and add a tiny bit at a time to your base until you get the result you’re looking for.
4. Pouring into the molds: once you have added your fragrance and achieve the color you wanted, you are now ready to pour the melted soap into the molds. You may use a pouring pitcher or use the mixing bowl depending to what you are comfortable to use.
Pouring temperature is great if it’s at 135 F
Tip: once you pour the soap in the mold, spritz with alcohol to eliminate bubbles formed at the surface of the soap.
Tip: if you want multiple layers, spritz with alcohol between layers: alcohol is the glue that holds the layers together.
5. Unmolding your finished soap: it can take up to a couple of hours to harden the soap, depending on the size of the soap and the ambient temperature. Test if the soap is hard by lightly pressing the surface and if it’s solid you’re ready to unmold. Turn the mold upside down and gently press on its bottom and the soap should pop right out. If it does not pop out most likely it’s not cool enough, leave it for an hour more. Sometime placing the soap in a freezer for 10 minutes will help it as well.
CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS
Crystal Donkey Milk
Store in air tight containers; in a cool dry area; away from direct sunlight.
Off White Opaque Solid @25°C. 27 32 %
0.1 0.5 %